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Posts Tagged ‘cabernet sauvignon’

How to Read a California Wine Label

Tuesday, February 10th, 2009



Mike Supple from SuppleWine.com goes through easy steps so you can read and recognize key information on a wine label for a Californian wine.

Transcript

Matt: Hi. I’m with Mike Supple of SuppleWine.com, and we’re here to talk about how to read labels. We’re starting with California.

Mike: Alright. So reading a label is something that’s fairly easy if you know what you’re doing. It’s also fairly important if you don’t know what you’re doing, so if your friend invites you over for dinner and says, ‘Hey, come over to my house; bring a bottle of Cabernet,’ you don’t just sort of sit on the other end of the phone going ‘duh…’. You want to be able to go into the store and kind of know what you’re doing. Maybe ask a few questions, but get yourself there.

Mike: So here’s a California wine label. Start out with an easy piece of information: they always have the name of the producer. This one here is Canyon Road. Second thing: the most popular style of wines in California are the varietal based wines, and that means what they say on the label is the main grape in there. This one right here: Cabernet Sauvignon. That means it’s at least 75% Cabernet Sauvignon. That’s a law in the United States; it’s got to be at least 75% to have that name on the front.

Matt: 0% beer though.

Mike: Yeah…at least in the US!

Mike: The important thing: they can put 25% of whatever else they want in there. It does have to be made from grapes, it has to be wine, but it can be anything else they want. It can be white grapes, it can be red grapes. Basically, the better producers are going to put in whatever they think makes it taste better. Some producers are going to use 100% Cabernet Sauvignon; some might think it tastes better with 10% Merlot - it might make it a little softer. But basically that’s what you’re looking for: the varietal name.

Mike: They’re also going to have a region on each label. This one just says California. That just means that the grapes came from anywhere in California. They didn’t go with a specific region that tastes like certain things. They can blend some grapes from Napa, from Sonoma, from the Central Coast.

Matt: Oakland?

Mike: They could blend some grapes from Oakland, San Francisco Bay. You never really know what’s going on in those ones.

Mike: What other pieces of info? They always tell you the alcohol by volume. That’s important because it’s really a tax thing. Certain levels of alcohol get different tax rates. So if it’s below 14% they call it “table wine” and it’s a lower tax bracket. Above that they call it “dessert wine” and it’s more expensive for tax purposes - not for you, but for the winery.

Matt: Alright, so that was California. Now we’re going to get a little more specific and go with something you know. We’re talking about Napa.

Mike: This is still a wine from California, but the information on the label is a little bit different. Again, you’re going to have the producer. The name of this producer is Trefethen, which happens to be one of my favorite Napa based wines, but that’s not important right now.

Mike: A few other things you might see on here: at the top, Estate Grown. That means that they actually own the vineyards and they grow the grapes that they use to make this wine. That other one we were looking at doesn’t say that, which means they could have bought the grapes from anybody. A lot of people do this. It doesn’t necessarily mean it’s bad if they buy the grapes. Some people have long-term contracts so they buy the same grapes from the same guy in the same place for 20, 30, 40 years, but when it’s estate grown it generally means since they own the vineyards they have a little more control over the entire process. It’s usually going to mean that it’s a little higher quality.

Matt: And probably more expensive as well.

Mike: Well, right. Every time they spend more money and there’s more quality, they bump the price up. Whether it’s better or not, the price goes up.

Mike: Again, you’re going to see the year the wine was made. This was made in 2004. This is also a Cabernet Sauvignon, which means it’s got to be at least 75% Cabernet. This particular wine blends, I believe, Merlot, a little Petite Verdot, maybe a little bit of Cabernet Franc in there. It says Estate Grown, which means they own the vineyards these other grapes are from, but it’s not necessarily all Cabernet Sauvignon. And they do this because they feel adding those grapes just gives it a little more complexity, a little more nuance, etc.

Mike: The other major difference here is that this says ‘Oak Knoll District of Napa Valley’. It doesn’t say California. That’s called an American Viticultural Area, or an AVA. These are designated regions in the United States where the government and the growers have decided that certain wines from these vineyards always have specific characteristics. And so they put that on [the label] - Oak Knoll District is an AVA within the Napa Valley. It’s something a little extra, a little more designated, so it generally means the quality is going to be a little bit higher than something that just says California, and it also means it’s going to be a little more expensive.

Matt: So basically what you’re telling us is that you start out with the state, then the larger region and then the AVA. The smaller it gets, the farther you go down the line, the more likely you are to have something very distinct. Also, as Mike told you, they can name the varietal on the label if there is 75% or more of the grape, but sometimes there’s nothing on that label at all.

Mike: That’s true. Again, the most popular styles of wines in the United States are varietals - they will tell you what the wine is on the label - but they don’t all. For example, this wine right here, the Inglenook Reunion. Now, you see: name of the producer, and 1986 when it was harvested. You see “estate bottled” which means they bottled it on their property where the winery is - they did the bottling themselves. Some people outsource bottling. It doesn’t say the name of the grapes though, it just says “Reunion” and a little trademark (they copyrighted that name). And it says underneath that “Red Table Wine” from Napa Valley. So this did come from Napa, a specific area within California, so it makes it a little bit more expensive, a little bit more nuanced with specific characteristics, but all they’re telling you is that it’s red wine. That’s all they have to tell you. They don’t have to tell you what’s in it. We do happen to know that this is a blend of Cabernet and a few other things. When a winery does something like this they’re trying to brand something, trying to build a name for themselves, so you think, “When I have this I’m not drinking Cabernet, I’m drinking Reunion”.

Mike: In a nutshell, that’s California. Oh, it also always says somewhere on the bottle how big the bottle is. A regular bottle size is 750ml, and it has to say that on the bottle. It can be in tiny letters, it can be on the front, it can be on the back, but it’s got to be on there somewhere. Not really important, but that’s on the label.

Matt: If you know how big the bottle is, you’ve got a good start.

Mike: That’s about it. That should get us through California, so get out there and drink some good wine.

Mike: Or beer.

California’s Wine Regions

Monday, February 9th, 2009

Brief History

The first vines were planted in San Diego, CA by Spanish missionaries in the late 1700s. Commercial winemaking began in the 1820s. The Gold Rush of 1849 brought vineyards closer to the Sierra Foothills so the miners wouldn’t have to travel as far to meet their daily needs. In the 1850s, Agostin Haraszthy brought around 300 different types of European varieties to California, leading to the birth of California’s modern wine industry.

As people sprawled around the San Francisco Bay area after the Gold Rush, vine plantings increased substantially, and Sonoma and Napa began to take off. While Europe suffered from phylloxera issues in the 1870s and 1880s, California wineries experienced a boom. People began spreading further and planting vineyards up and down the state.

Prohibition, not surprisingly, had a major impact on the California wine industry, and in the 1920s there was a decline in production. However, a few forward thinking wineries pushed through this period by selling bulk grapes and grape juice along with yeast and clear instructions not to mix the ingredients in a very precise manner or else wine would result. And some wineries just kept selling to churches, since church-sponsored drinking wasn’t evil.

Key Regions (North to South)

Mendocino - Known for Cabernet Sauvignon, Sauvignon Blanc, Petite Sirah and Zinfandel. Home to the smaller region of Anderson Valley where Chardonnay and Pinot Noir are grown to produce traditional method sparkling wines. The climate is similar in many ways to that of Champagne, and these are arguably among the best sparkling wines produced in the US.

Sonoma - One of California’s largest and most important wine regions, it rivals neighboring Napa in both fame and quality. A key region for Cabernet Sauvignon, Chardonnay, Pinot Noir, Sauvignon Blanc, and Zinfandel.

Napa - California’s most famous (and most expensive) wine-making region. The diversity in climate, soil and aspect in Napa creates ideal growing conditions for many grape varieties with international demand. Known primarliy for rich, full-bodied Cabernet Sauvignon, but also produces high quality Chardonnay, Merlot, Sauvignon Blanc, Syrah and Zinfandel.

Monterey - One of California’s driest regions, where many of the vineyards depend on irrigation from the underground Salinas River. Known for Chardonnay, Pinot Blanc, Pinot Noir and, to a lesser extent, Cabernet Sauvignon and Riesling.

San Luis Obispo - Home to one of the hottest (Paso Robles) and one of the coolest (Arroyo Grande Valley) AVAs in California. Known for Cabernet Sauvignon, Pinot Noir, Sauvignon Blanc, Syrah and Zinfandel.

Santa Barbara - The southernmost part of California’s Central Coast wine region. While the town itself has almost subtropical conditions, the vineyards along the Pacific Coast get so much fog that it is among the coolest wine regions in the state. Known for Chardonnay, Pinot Noir and Sauvignon Blanc, and to a lesser extent Cabernet Franc, Cabernet Sauvignon and Merlot.

Types of Wines

The most prominent type of wine produced in California is the varietal wine, which is a table wine that lists a single variety of grape on the label. Aside from varietal wines, California produces just about every other type of wine available in the rest of the world; inexpensive bulk wines, sparkling wines, late-harvest wines and fortified wines.

It is important to note that in the US the type of wine is determined by alcohol content, and is used for tax purposes rather than a measure of quality. Any wine with alcoholic strength below 14% is considered a “table wine” and anything over 14% is a “dessert” wine. This means that many red wines produced in California are technically dessert wines even though they have no residual sugar in them. These bottles are not required to be labeled as dessert wines, as the majority of them (Cabernet Sauvignon, Pinot Noir, Syrah, Zinfandel) are dry table wines with no sugar. The government term for “dessert” wine is solely for taxation purposes, while when wine makers refer to dessert wines, they typically mean a sweeter wine.

Prominent Grape Varieties

Most of the wines produced in California are made of the popular international or European grape varieties, though small vineyards with unique and delicious varieties can be found scattered throughout the state.

The most common: Cabernet Sauvignon, Chardonnay, Gewurztraminer, Merlot, Pinot Gris/Grigio, Pinot Noir, Riesling, Sangiovese, Sauvignon Blanc, Syrah, Viognier and Zinfandel.

Climate

As everyone already knows, California is perfect, sunny and mild all the time. How they manage to get any wine made after a long day of surfing is anyone’s guess.

But the reality is that the climate in California is rather varied due to geographic influences. Fog created by offshore currents is a constant problem up and down the coastline, interfering with grapes’ ability to get enough sunlight to ripen. However, various pockets of land (as pictured in the map above) do get some ideal temperatures and conditions. Despite being close to cold and foggy San Francisco, Napa is protected by mountain ranges and is one of the warmest and driest regions in the state. Rainfall is somewhat regular, falling mostly in the winter months. Winter is relatively mild throughout the state, creating very small risk of severe cold damage to the vines.

Spring frosts are one of the largest climatic issues in California, as frost can kill young buds on the vine and ruin the upcoming crop. Many tools are used to either move cold pockets of air or shield the grapes from the frost. In Napa, giant fans such as those in the video above are commonly used for pushing cold air away from low areas.

Geography

The geography of California is very varied, so it is difficult to give a generic overview (particularly since the areas under vine run about 600 miles from north to south and another 135 miles east to west). The soil in California is made of many different things due to the coming together of the Pacific tectonic plate and the North American tectonic plate (the cause of all those lovely earthquakes).

In 1983 the federal government began setting legal boundaries for defined wine regions called American Viticultural Areas (AVAs). These AVAs can be used on labels, and vary from broad (California) to specific (Oak Knoll District - which is within the AVA of Napa, which is within the AVA of the North Coast, which is within the AVA of California). While AVAs are supposed to be set up in accordance with specific geographich conditions, they are largely based on political and commercial reasons. A prime example is within the AVA of Napa. The various soil types in Napa generally run in veins from north to south, so it would make sense for the smaller AVAs to follow these veins. However, most of the AVAs run east to west along town boundaries and winery property lines, crossing different soil types and different climatic conditions.

Viticulture and Wine Making

California is often at the forefront of vineyard management and winemaking technologies. The University of California at Davis is home to one of the world’s best research facilities, particularly when it comes to viticulture and oenology.

Wineries range from massive conglomerates pumping out millions of gallons to tiny boutique wineries producing a mere handful of cases each year. The vineyard techniques vary from the latest mechanical processes to harvesting by hand, and from massive chemical use to totally organic practices. And it is a mistake to assume that all large wineries use chemicals and all small ones do not.

Practices are similarly varied inside the wineries. Without centuries of tradition as a guiding principal, most wine makers follow a largely scientific approach taught at UC Davis, carefully measuring, monitoring and controlling the whole process of fermentation. Many others treat wine making as an art form and combine modern techniques with classical ones, innovating and learning every year.

2005 Trapiche Oak Cask Cabernet Sauvignon

Friday, February 6th, 2009

87 / B+

Tasted by Mike Supple - 26 Jan 2009

Dark ruby core with a lighter brick rim. Ripe black cherry and cassis aromas with a vanilla bean, roasted oak and crushed violets. Lush and juicy on the front palate. Great acid from front to back. Black cherry, coffee, scorched oak and blackberry. Medium bodied with fine-grained tannins providing nice support. Finishes a little thick and jammy. Easy drinking and a great wine before, during and after dinner.

Click here for full grades section

2006 Red Diamond Cabernet Sauvignon

Tuesday, February 3rd, 2009

83 / B-

Tasted by Mike Supple - 06 Jan 2009

Purple core with a lighter rim. Smoke and gravel waft from the glass, supported by darker blueberry and cherry fruit. Black licorice candy on the palate with some juicy black cherry and a touch of earth. Thick on the mid-palate with a light tannic grip on the back end. Decent, but not particularly well balanced.

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2006 Caymus Cabernet Sauvignon

Thursday, January 22nd, 2009

92 / A

Tasted by Mike Supple - 28 Jul 2008

Dark ruby core, almost black in the center, surrounded by a bright pink rim with a touch of purple. Big, complex aromas of vanilla oak over raspberry, blackberry and sweet tea. A rich core of dark chocolate floats around spicy cinnamon and toasty almonds with a teasing hint of earth. This is a full bodied Cab in the mouth, but drinking amazingly well at this young age. Chocolate covered blackberries and raspberries lead to a long finish of toasted almonds, cherry and oak. While it is full bodied the tannins are very ripe and refined making this a bottle that you can pop now, but will also hold well for another 4 - 8 years.

Caymus has very impressively maintained the price for their wine over the past several years while many other Napa Cabs have jumped in price. Their 2006 Cabernet is one of the best I’ve had from them in years. If you are looking for a solid, well made Napa Cab that is sure to please, then look no further.

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2006 Cliff Lede Cabernet Sauvignon Stags Leap

Wednesday, January 21st, 2009

93 / A

Tasted by Mike Supple - 07 Jan 2009

Dark purple core to the edge of the glass – almost no rim. Rich, dense fruit aromas swarming from the glass. Dark plum, cassis and blackberry surrounded by chocolate, caramel, cinnamon and nutmeg spices, a touch of coconut and a light violet lift. Silky entry in the mouth building quickly into a full bodied wine. A big mid-palate with lots of ripe tannins. A thick core of plum, black cherry and cassis fruit is accented by baker’s chocolate and spicy cinnamon with a touch of chalk in the finish. You can drink this now, but it will easily improve in the bottle and last another decade or more.

While not a cheap wine, this still gets an A for value when put in comparison with other Napa wines of this quality. Most of the other wines from Napa that are this complete go for over $100, and most of the Cabs in the same price range are of inferior quality. This bottle is a surefire winner to impress any Cabernet snob (collector, enthusiast, etc).

Click here for full grades section