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Dessert Wine Is More Than a Final Act
Start and end your meal with this versatile choice
by Wine Taster
published: 22 Jul 2009 | Comments
"Good things come in small packages," goes the old proverb.
That includes dessert wine. Grape juice that satisfies the sweet tooth is difficult to make and yields little, yet it delivers provocative flavors far beyond any other category of wine. The styles are wide ranging, from light and effervescent to honeyed and luscious. Usually, a pour of two to three ounces is all you need (and get). Like the tiny stone that felled mighty Goliath, these petite servings can satisfy the most fussy of palettes. They shine as a final note to a brilliant meal, are a powerful addition to complex cocktails, elevate any number of sweets and are an ideal match to many of the luxuriant dishes of the culinary world.
Dessert wine is meant to be much more than a final act.
It's really just a matter of learning how to pick the right style for the setting. Fortified versions such as Port, Madeira and Sherry have had brandy, a neutral spirit, added as a finishing touch. These styles are typically higher in alcohol making them more "masculine" and powerful. They all work well with an earthy cheese plate, assorted charcuterie, not-too-sweet desserts and, of course, as a digestif. For cigar smokers, the idea of closing the evening with a nice, vintage port and a good stogie is bliss. If you prefer sherry or Madeira, either pairs beautifully with gamey, savory dishes such as venison and sweetbreads. They also can instill texture and depth to cocktails.
The most concentrated and sweet dessert wine is late harvest, or Botrytis. This Latin term for "noble rot" refers to a mold that causes grapes to shed excess water, leaving nothing but intense sugar. Sauternes from France and TBA (Trockenbeerenauslese) from Germany and Austria are the most famous of this variety. These ultra decadent wines are so amazingly flavorful that they can shine alone or provide the perfect foil to foie gras, intense blue cheeses and other rich dishes. Late harvest versions are found all over the world and can be made from different grapes, including Semillon, Riesling and Muscat. They tend to be the most successful when paired with dessert; just make sure the dish is not sweeter than the wine.
Moscato d'Asti, a sparkling style of dessert wine from Italy, doesn't fall into either of these two main categories. Copied by countries around the world, it is less carbonated than Champagne and offers fragrant aromatics and delicate bubbles. Unlike many dessert wines, Moscato d'Asti can open or close a meal.
Dessert wine may not be the focal point of a grand meal, but it can play a welcome role throughout the evening. You won't forget the brilliance of each tiny sip.
